Hey Rocket, this one is about when I visited Kanazawa... Japan, Part Two

Here is a second instalment of my adventure in Japan!

I am not as talented a photographer as Michelle (make sure you check her blog, she might have posted some new photos..!)

(Or not, and I am just teasing)

However, let me tell you about when I visited Kanazawa.

Kanazawa is known for its gold leaf - and it is on everything! Icecream, in my tea, painted onto buildings, jewellery, iPhone cases.... But it was a beautiful place beyond all the gilding, straight out of a japanese legend.

It started with the Botanic Gardens, (partly covered in Japan, Part One), then I crossed the road to visit the Kanazawa Castle. It was inhabited by a Shogun, and a whole bunch of samurai during the Edo period. The steps were all uneven in case they were attacked - to trip up the enemy samurai who were unfamiliar with the castle. The castle tower was built in a diamond shape. 300 years ago, when all they used were interlocking bits of wood, they created a perfect, 3-level tower with corners at 100 and 80 degrees! (And it was recreated more recently as the original had burnt down).

100 degree corner! The tower was a perfect diamond! Mind = blown.

Lets see  you run up/down these stairs first time, without tripping, while defending samurai threw rocks at you...

Mr Noburo Orito telling us about how this castle was prosperous for 350 years during the Edo Period. He is gesturing to the wife of Maeda Toshiie, who volunteered to live in Tokyo as a hostage to help keep things peaceful between the ruling power, and the great city that was Kanazawa!

Botanic medical garden - Kanazawa castle was briefly used as a university. Here, Mr Noburo told us about the use of bamboo to preserve rice. The rice can be wrapped in bamboo leaf, which in combination with vinegar used in cooking the rice, helps keep it delicious for longer. When an earlier visitor asked Mr Noburo if he ate the bamboo as well as the rice, his response, "Panda eat bamboo. I am not panda".

My friend and I were given a personal tour, in english, by Mr. Noboru Orito. He was incredibly knowledgeable about Kanazawa, and had a soft spot for New Zealand and Kiwis.

Kanazawa Castle, seen from near the storage building where weapons were kept.

After visiting the castle, I went on to see the Museum of Gold Leaf and the geisha district. Kanazawa was incredible, the streets narrow, with new temples, shrines and interesting food in windows to see around every corner. I felt like a giant, white stranger a lot of the time (which I guess I was), in a city that was a mix of traditional and modern buildings, that smelt of river water and traffic, sounded like bicycle bells ringing and people moving, with an ice cream that tasted delicious and creamy, despite being dusted with gold flakes!

Next up: Kyoto. Where I didnt get lost, but I communicated with deer.

Dear Rocket, A story about Japan... Part One: Plants

Rocket, you know I travelled to Japan to attend Arctic Science Summit Week, 21 - 30th April, 2015.

I ventured out into the countryside, a kiwi keen to learn more about various Shogun and Emperors, while sampling the local food that left me feeling stuffed - and nervous about what a whole firefly squid might do in my belly!

(Lets be real, I know it will be digested, but eating it whole was certainly an experience....)

Koi carp were common in the ponds and water features - it was striking to see them contemplated so quietly, while here in NZ, they are a massive pest!

Koi carp in Toyama Castle park. Came up to say hello and nibble my fingers!

Then all of the other carp arrived, things got a bit messy... I removed my fingers from the water, and left smelling of fishy pond water

The conference was extremely interesting, but on my day off, I found something which delighted this botanist's senses... The Tonami Tulip Fair! The Dutch probably wouldnt be impressed, but I found it so colourful, it smelt like hot summery days and looked like a vibrant rainbow!

I spent a few moments watching the cherry blossoms sway in the warm breeze!

The Sakura, or Cherry Blossoms, were blooming at their best in Toyama before I arrived, I managed to catch these in a shady spot of the tulip fair! The Sakura 'front' moves from south to north in the Spring - then in Autumn, the Autumn leaf 'front' moves back down the country from north to south.

In the Botanic Gardens in Kanazawa, I saw trees, with all their branches propped up! Turns out, when it snows in Winter, the boughs of the trees can snap under the weight of all the flakes of frozen water. Using poles to hold them up = problem solved! Long-lived trees with fascinating scaffolding.

Creative Non Fiction

On the weekend, I attended a workshop given by Rae Roadley. She is the author of "Love at the end of the road", which refers to a house down at Batley on the Kaipara Harbour (you can see it from Otamatea marae). It was part of the NorthWrite Conference/workshop series run in part by the New Zealand Society of Authors
NorthWrite Website

Before I went, I had no idea what 'creative non fiction' was, and even since I am not totally sure... I can say that it is a merging of fact and fiction, where facts become friendly to the reader.

Now, since having written a PhD thesis, I found this thought slightly bemusing - facts cant become friendly, they are simply facts. You put them all together, use them as evidence, back up your arguments - there is nothing creative as such about that!

But we did an exercise, where the instructions were to imagine a place/building/outdoor space that is important or special to you. Describe the physical aspects, history, why I like/dislike it and so on. Then put yourself in that space, and write 1 - 2 paragraphs about emotions it evokes, how you feel about it and why, plus some facts (eg age, colour, etc). I found this exercise fascinating - first, because it was not after seriously researching some aspect of flower colour. Second, because the facts simply 'fit' in after some emotional creations!

Here is my short paragraph:

As I walked up the edge of the small, rocky beach onto the narrow neck that connects Bicayahuken to the mainland, the late afternoon angle of the sun hit me right in the face. A glacier, shining blue-white was edging down into the bay. The bay itself looked like something from the east coast of New Zealand. I felt like an early explorer, on my own heroic adventure despite being part of a student group. Biscayahuken is a small point of land in the north of Spitsbergen. It is named after the Biscay Whalers that were present in Svalbard during the 17th and 18th Centuries and has experienced human inhabitation. There were few remnants of human occupation these days. The rocky outline of a small hut with permafrost-churned grave sites nearby. Maybe they died from illness, perhaps old age. Noone in the group knew, and that seemed a poor legacy to have left behind. Rusted nails, broken glass and odd pieces of wire and such were strewn about, in between the small clumps of Saxifraga caespitosa. I could see that nature was simply going on, as it had done even when the occupants of the graves had been standing where I was.

Hut remnants at Biscayahuken, 2010

Thats as far as I got in the last half hour of the workshop. Interesting process, and definitely something I shall pursue! Rae Roadley was very adamant that one should be a kind narrator.

The view of the glacier

Some things are best left unsaid, and one persons recollection of a 'fact' may well be very different from anothers! The one saying of note that struck me was this, in the words of Micheal King (perhaps similar to W.B. Yeats?):
                                                 "Tread softly for you tread on my life"

Saxifraga cespitosa

How cool? Ice Cold!

In every sense of the word, the information and interactions on the following link are 'cool'!!

Summer On Ice

So just a short post today - go check it out. It follows a few of the scientists who worked in the Antarctic over summer. Scott Base is now all set up for the winter season and I for one am looking forward to IceFest this year, which celebrates the opening of the new Antarctic Summer season and the first flight down since the beginning of March! For more info on that, check out this link:

NZ IceFest 2014

And an antartic picture to honour all this icey goodness

An upright icicle outside Scott Base, Ross Island in Antarctica, 2008

Writing Boot Camp Day 1 - Telling a good story

Lesson #1 - Telling a good story.

This may be cheating - there wasnt any mention of it in the Boot Camp write up - but I am already stuck for ideas to write about so I thought I would write about this photograph.

I took this picture in March of 2012 during a trip up the Maungatua Mountains (just inland from Dunedin, South Island, New Zealand). It is the delicately veined, pale white petal, dark blue anthers and lime green stigma of Gentiana bellidifolia (it may be a different gentian species, but this is my best guess). A day in the life of this flower consists of waiting for the sun to come, bright rays pouring over the edge of the mountain, sparkling off the nearby tarn and slowly heating the closed flower. At a certain temperature (not sure what it is, but I watched a gentian open on the Remarkables near Queenstown after a night of snow) the petals unfurl, and the sun can shine in and gently heat the anthers and stigma. Insects will visit this flower, small flying ones, that cluster in the base either drinking nectar or basking in the warm sunshine. Maybe other crawling beasties will visit - and nibble away at the petals, something I imagine would taste like soft pancakes.

As the sun gets higher, then lower, the whole cycle of floral opening begins, but in reverse. The insects leave, the flower is sucked dry, and the petals begin to slowly furl up till closing time. In the night, little things scurry around, up and over the flower, ignoring the ripening seeds inside the closed petals. During the previous day, one, maybe two or three of the small flying insects brushed against the receptive stigma leaving a few grains of pollen stuck to the surface. That began the process of plant reproduction, and within a few days the ovary below the stigma will be dark purple and swollen with brand, new seeds.

I dont know if that is a good story. I like it but I have spent a large part of my life immersed in the study of plant sex, flower colour and reproduction!! It takes all types =)

Day One of Boot Camp - successfully completed. Feeling positive and optimistic about developing a writing habit!

First Blush of Spring

The first shine of light I have seen on the mountains since I arrived nearly three months ago! And even the moon is making an appearance. Am feeling uplifted, and my mood is rising just like the sun!

 It is stretching into Adventdalen, hopefully I get to feel its rays on my face before NZ (where, lets face it, I will quickly resemble a lobster after enjoying life as a translucent being...)

Still not quite so radiant in town yet! The sun will come back to town on the 8th of March, the day after I return to NZ.

In Search of Sunshine

It has been 75 days since I last saw the sun, that burning ball of light, high up in the sky!

At times, I have missed it sorely. When I first arrived, I had absolutly no sense of day from night, up from down, in part due to my jet lag but mostly because there was never any light. It really struck home how much I relied on the changes in daylight to tell the time. No beautiful sunrises to tell me it is time to throw back the covers and leap out of bed!

The view as I leap out of bed in the mornings. Hehe, who am I kidding, I dont leap out of bed, but this is my view!

But now, the light is definitly back at 78 degrees North. There is a sense of daytime, with blue light from around 8 in the morning, until about 4 pm. And on the weekend (16 February to be precise), I attempted my first adventure to see the sun.

Looking north, across Plateaufjellet and at Isfjorden

It was to be from Trollstein, a mountain near Longyearbyen, which is 849 m high (according to my map). This was my very first mountain to be climbed while wearing skis. 

The mountain top, just before midday

Now, my skiing is definitly in the class of "young giraffe in high heels wandering across the ice". But, I was determined to give it a go (will try anything once!) and as such, I stuck 'skins' on my borrowed skis, and set off up through the moraine and onto the glacier. It was actually alright - you dont sink into the snow so much, and sliding your feet along is much easier than having to lift them out of snow.

Me, attempting that "ski attitude" I have seen in pictures.

Twice, I had to remove my skis to walk up a steep section though. The second time was when I was 'traversing' (totally getting this language now!!) and starting going backwards, downhill. Not such a nice feeling, being unable to control your movement on a steep, hardpacked, snowy mountain side! 

This was a community event, plenty of people to talk to on the way up and down!

Eventually, I made it to the top, to look out at the stunning vista of mountain tops with the shy sun just peeking out....

The view to the east. Lovely crescent moon, but in the end, no sun whatsoever...

BUT nothing. Just a mass of grey cloud, very cold temperatures and a sense of disappointment!  And fear. Fear of skiing, down a steep slope, with nothing but a snow covered glacier to catch me!

After a biscuit, hot drinks and a quick chat with friends, I attached my skis to my backpack and walked down the steepest part. Then, tentatively re-attached my skis to go down a little bit... Only to panic for about 5 mins, take off skis, then run to catch up with friends and walk the rest of the way down.

All in all, a good trip but am uncertain about this downhill skiing. Just wait until you hear about my experiences of skiing with dogs...

Heading back down towards town, hot chocolate and cosy company!

I saw the sun!

Heliotropism is a plant behaviour. A plant will arrange itself in correlation with the sunlight. The most efficient Arctic plant that does this (in my opinion!) is the Arctic Poppy. The Arctic Poppy is a species complex; it is a complex network of closely related species. One of the members of this complex is Papaver dahlianum, the Svalbard Poppy.

The Svalbard poppy (Svalbardvalmue) is the iconic flower of Svalbard. It has white or yellow flowers, hairy, lobed leaves and grows in many different environments. See the link below for  short overview of my research into flower colour in P. dahlianum

Hot n' Cold (By Eva Therese Jenssen

White flowered Svalbardvalmue (Photo: Eva Therese Jenssen)

Below is a link to the "Blomsten og Bien" (Flowers and Bees) camera project that I helped with in 2010. Timelapse photos were taken throughout the flowering season and these weather proof cameras caught many exciting images. In particular, watch out during the Silene acaulis video for the reindeer hoof-print and the grazed Bistorta vivipara!

Blomsten og Bien (Flowers and Bees)